IT'S OFFICIAL: CHICKEN SOUP CHAMP CHOSEN

By JORDANA LEWIS
25 February 2004

Bragging rights to "the best chicken soup in America" officially belong to Rosely Himmelstein of New York City.

Yesterday, at a contest sponsored by the National Jewish Outreach Program, her recipe beat more than 5,000 submissions. The group hosted the contest to publicize its Shabbat Across America program. Program Director Rabbi Yitzchak Rosenbaum knew it needed "something outstanding" to stir public attention.

Thus hatched the Chicken Soup Challenge.

Amateur cooks across America submitted recipes to the group and Jeff Nathan, chef and host of the PBS series "New Jewish Cuisine," chose the five finalists. He narrowed the list with two restrictions: only natural ingredients, thus barring bullion and MSG, and no other meats. "Chicken soup should speak for itself," he said.

Helen Nash, a kosher cookbook author who served as a judge, said each region has its own chicken soup. In a hushed tone, Ms. Nash said, "Chicken soup started with the Chinese, not the Jews, I'm afraid."

Ms. Himmelstein - whose soup uses root vegetables, dill, and cilantro - won a trip to Israel, a trophy, and a crown in the form of a chef's hat. Her soup will also be served at the cafe in the Museum of Jewish Heritage.

Paulette Rochelle-Levy of Santa Monica, Calif., Jerry Greenberg of Belmont, Calif., Gail Barzilay of Westport, Conn., and Veronica Gold of Worcester, Mass., also competed. The five chefs cooked at Abigael's restaurant from 9 a.m. until noon, with just one minor accident - a cut finger.

The nine judges included Brooklyn's borough president, Marty Markowitz, Rep. Anthony Weiner, and Michael Steinhardt, a philanthropist and investor in The New York Sun. A director of the Museum of Jewish Heritage, David Marwell, reminded his fellow judges that even traditionalists "should not discriminate against modern ways of making chicken soup."

Minutes before the contest, the founder and director of NJOP, Rabbi Ephraim Buchwald, questioned Mr. Steinhardt's participation because he is on a diet. "I cry foul, spelled F-O-WL," Rabbi Buchwald quipped. Even so, none of the judges protested before diving into the steaming bowls of soup.

The first was deep yellow with cuts of cilantro floating in the broth. One judge guessed the chef "must be from New Mexico or Arizona." The second soup's translucent broth had chunks of turnip and specks of Italian parsley. Ms. Nash said the third soup "spoke heavily of chicken" and Mr. Steinhardt praised its "intense flavor."

Mr. Nathan found the fourth soup so thick it bordered on "porridge." The last soup was the most exotic, using plantains, coconut extract, and bell pepper.

"Chicken soup is the universal comfort food," Ms. Himmelstein said as she accepted her trophy. Mr. Markowitz was especially thrilled with her victory. "She lives in New York, I can go to her home!" he said.

Ms. Himmelstein uses her grandmother's recipe and claims the soup is "absolutely simple - no secret ingredient, no recipe."